Excerpt From Chapter 1: Punk Capitalism

I just found this online at ereader. I didn’t know my publisher had authorized this excerpt, but figured since it was up there, I could re-post it here. Please enjoy…
“I’d noticed that hair mattered.”
He’s sitting across from me in the back of a café. You wouldn’t think that hair mattered to look at him. His dark brown hair falls around his thick-rimmed glasses down to his jaw, casually framing his face. He has that relaxed, just-got-out-of-bed look. Not the on-purpose kind media types have, but as though he actually might have. It doesn’t look as though he’s given hair much thought at all, but the man I am talking with had one of the most important haircuts of the twentieth century.
This is Richard Meyers: writer, poet, artist, and former front man of bands the Neon Boys, Television, and the Voidoids. He is better known as Richard Hell, and the angular hairstyle and cut-up clothing he pioneered in the early 1970s would come to define a movement better known as punk.
Not far from where we’re sitting on New York’s Lower East Side was the club CBGB, where Hell’s early performances inspired punk’s first generation. A runaway from Kentucky, he arrived in the city an aspiring writer, affected by beat poets and writers such as Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg, but quickly realized he could make a more powerful statement with music. “Part of what I liked about music was all these other means for communication,” Hell told me. “In rock ‘n’ roll it’s always been important how you looked. How you looked said something. And it was usually something about rejecting convention and the nine-to-five, and any kind of control, but you could get really elaborate with how you used the way you looked to communicate stuff. You’re always being interviewed, your album covers, your live shows, it was so broad, the areas for getting your message across. I wanted to use all of them.”
And use them he did. Inspired in part by the rebellious French poets Rimbaud and Artaud, who had sported spiky hair in the early nineteenth century, Hell chopped his mane into a short, aggressive style as a way of rejecting the hippie movement and the big-hair glamour of stadium rock. He looked at the Beatles’ bowl haircuts and asked himself, what are they really saying? “Well,” he explains, “they really say five-year-old kid. So I thought, ‘What was my generation’s haircut like when we were five years old?’ Where I grew up, the most popular haircut was called the ‘Butch.’ Short all the way around, and you’d maybe wax up the front of it. But of course being kids, we wouldn’t get to the barber that often, and we wouldn’t keep it neat, it would just be kind of raggedy…. I wanted it to be do-it-yourself. I wanted it to not be something you’d go to the barber for.”
Richard fused the Beatles, the “Butch,” and two radical nineteenth-century French bohemians into his new do-it-yourself hairstyle, and hell literally broke loose. In 1974 Television took to the stage at CBGB on Sunday nights. Hell wore clothes slashed as aggressively as his hair, held together with safety pins and emblazoned with slogans such as PLEASE KILL ME. “It was a rejection of having who you are imposed on you by corporations who were gonna profit from making you feel insecure about how you look,” he says. “I’ve just always been really skeptical and suspicious and resentful of people who try to sell you stuff by intimidating you.”
Hell’s statements were a full-frontal assault on the senses, burning his ideas into the minds of his audience, who at the time happened to be some of the most influential people in New York City, and in pop culture period. After Television’s success, CBGB (which stood for “Country Blue-Grass Blues”) switched to a punk rock–only format every night, becoming a creative hotbed for artists and bands such as the Ramones, Patti Smith, Talking Heads, and Debbie Harry, all of whom cut their teeth on its stage. Malcolm McLaren, then manager of another influential group, the New York Dolls, was so stimulated by Hell’s look he took it back to London and used it to create a new band: the Sex Pistols.
Punk exploded.
Thirty years after it first shook the world, punk is in a museum. A few miles uptown from where Hell and I are sitting, the Metropolitan Museum of Art is holding a punk exhibition sponsored by multinational luxury goods brand Burberry. Tourists are studying early British punk clothes—made by now world-famous fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood—and listening to a podcast commentary by the world-famous Sex Pistol Jonny Rotten.
Punk is dead.
But Hell survived. Instead of becoming a parody of his former self, he moved on. He remains on the Lower East Side, under the mainstream’s radar, but credible in many other circles, now the successful poet and published writer he always aspired to be. This new attitude, career, and his current, less threatening hairstyle are all part of a strategy. “The interesting thing is to not remain the same,” he muses. “To me that’s what’s boring; I don’t really care to see fifty-year-old people going around in punk leather jackets. The point is to stay unclassifiable. Then they don’t own you.”
When the hairstyle lost its meaning, Hell lost the hairstyle. But his statement and the do-it-yourself ideal he promoted affected the world. Today it is the driving force behind a new generation of D.I.Y. entrepreneurs who are raising hell once again. Disruptive new D.I.Y. technologies are causing unprecedented creative destruction. The history of punk offers us valuable insights into how this new world works. Punk was an angry outburst, a reaction to mass culture, but it offered new ideas about how mass culture could be replaced with a more personalized, less centralized worldview.
Punk has survived in many incarnations musically—it became new wave, influenced hip-hop, and conceived grunge and the notion of indie bands. But more important, its independent spirit also spurred a do-it-yourself revolution. D.I.Y. encourages us to reject authority and hierarchy, advocating that we can and should produce as much as we consume. Since punk, this idea has been quietly changing the very fabric of our economic system, replacing outdated ideas with the twenty-first-century upgrades of Punk Capitalism.
Suddenly like at a punk gig, today everybody is getting smashed together in a much more turbulent, concentrated environment that is constantly changing. There are fewer conventional “jobs,” and increasingly complex relationships between those consuming and those producing. And changes in manufacturing mean soon all of us could have the means to create literally anything ourselves, from the comfort of our own homes.
As we shall now see, the possibilities of D.I.Y. are reaching new heights. Like a roomful of teenagers with green hair throwing bottles at one another, this new world can look frightening. But once you get it, it’s obvious it’s a better place to be. The end of top-down mass culture is creating opportunities and freedoms for us all.
Hell used the past to create a hairstyle that shaped the perspective of a generation. Generations since have grown up using ingenuity and creativity to do the things punk always promoted: tearing down hegemonies and hierarchies, starting over, and improving the way we operate as a society.
Hell is right. Hair mattered.
Long live punk.





January 22nd, 2008 at 2:40 pm
It’s interesting to map the constellation of forces that coalesced in “the artist formerly known as Hell”. It’s equally interesting that while people such as Richard Meyers remain invisible when the MOMA [or here in England, The Victoria and Albert Museum] choose to give us their version of “the punk story], when a more non-linear, horizontal, network version of “punk” is presented, certain individuals temporarily “decloak” and their importance as a key nodes of influence becomes recognised. I guess while people like Hell and bands like Chrome, Half Japanese, Suicide (who were all punk bands before there were punk bands or more prosaically a la Lacan and Foucault, before there was a discourse and linguistic structure of ‘punk’ that an individual or punk had to pass through)
Bands like the above and near peers such as Teenage Jesus & The Jerks, The Dicatators, Theoretical Girls and the rest of the bands the media file under “no-wave” - or bands here in England like Crass, This Heat and Throbbing Gristle, all these bands remain outside the discourse of “punk history” precisely because they cannot be recuperated (in the situationist sense of becoming a commodity) or to put it bluntly, they do not give good product and as such exist outside of a given history of punk.
Thats why there is such an emphasis on the Sex Pistols, Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm Maclaren and the shops Sex/Seditionaries when outfits like MOMA or the V&A tell us the story of punk, because these people gave us product, mainly clothes but also the artwork of Jamie Reid (Sex Pistols and ironically a brief member of the Situationist International) - whereas the other bands certainly produced products media such as records, posters, books, pamphlets, fanzines, patches, teeshirts, they could not be so easily commodified as the inherent message of these bands, be it musically, politically or culturally, was anti-capitalist, anti-corporate and anti-consumerist. Bands like the Voidoids, Crass or Half-Japanese existed and continue to exist as representations of a music produced sonically, politically and culturally between and outside of the neural nets of consumption and production, music from the cracks between worlds.
So while I realise this has been a long winded way of making a simple point about “punk capitalism”, namely that the people who made punk possible, who built the forms and structures both sonically and culturally are too often forgotten while those such as the Sex Pistols (who reformed last year for their 30th year anniversary which is ironic given the singer Johnny Rotten used to say “never trust anyone over thirty”) are elevated to a privileged status as “founders” of punk and are used as “ciphers” when we ask what punk means.
I guess its those that have both a product to sell and can be easily sold who benefit the most. For me though, its good to see that its precisely because of the internet that other discourses of what “punk” means can be created and manifested.
It was also good that Rimbaud and Artaud were mentioned. I have always seen these two as original punks and not just in terms of the iconography of a specific hairstyle. What is interesting is that in Paris in the 1950s a group of artists, revolutionaries and drop outs who called themselves “The Enrages” (who were the egg out of which the anti capitalist, anti-consumerist situationist theories of Debord and Vanigem emerged and were themselves influenced by Rimbaud and Artaud) took to wearing old ripped clothes with political slogans painted on them twenty years before the punks thought of it)
January 22nd, 2008 at 5:05 pm
Thanks Paul - some good points here. I talk about the Situationists later in this chapter, their influence on the world is far reaching and little understood. What do you think about Courbet and the influence of realism on punk? I know a lot of people in the scene think this is all a little pretentious, but the link between what he was trying to do and what Hell was trying to do is definitely there.
March 14th, 2008 at 3:13 pm
Pirates, Professors and a New Political Spectrum…
Right and left just aren’t enough anymore. We don’t live in a world where collective vs. individual sums up who we are (if it ever did). In fact, the much bigger tensions in today’s world are: democracy vs. authority; diversity…
March 28th, 2008 at 1:59 pm
[…] of this year’s event is how ‘cool’ and ‘caring’ can and should co-exist, something I call Punk Capitalism in the book. There are some really inspiring people speaking at this event, include Mr. Vidal […]
June 9th, 2008 at 8:21 am
yeah, the internet shows that the DIY idea of ‘zines is alive and strong. Each blog is like a zine. You can say what you want and promote that which means the most to you.
July 4th, 2008 at 5:34 am
[…] it is simply fun. Call it punk capitalism - increasingly companies are going to have to work harder to make the relationship with consumers […]
July 8th, 2008 at 6:11 am
[…] Leenders will make some money out of the project. Making him, says Paul Bradshaw, a true punk capitalist. More and more D.I.Y entrepreneurs find new and unconventional ways of making money, some even by […]
July 15th, 2008 at 6:56 am
[…] to be part of their project, rather than simply paying money. I’ve spoken before about ‘punk capitalism‘ and this seems to me to be another example. Not only that, but it’s another symptom of […]